africa.fashion::the congolese sape
Posted: April 2nd, 2008 | Author: kamau | Filed under: fashion, internet, magazine, music, photography, politics | 3 Comments »
screenshot of landing page of hector mediavilla’s photo essay on ZoneZero web site
Stunning photo essay The Congolose Sape by hector mediavilla. back in the day, it was easy to spot a congolose man on the streets in nairobi. they were fashionable and elegant in a way we kenyans just weren’t. we loved to contrast them with the stereotype of the rich kikuyu farmer with muddy safari boots and suit jacket with the funky hems that turned inward, pockets bulging with papers and money.
i now know that their style was influenced by the sapeurs of congo brazzaville whose style, elegance and manners were then popularized in congo kinshasa and eventually all over east and central africa by papa wemba (and other congolese musicians) who sang about them and emulated their fashion sense.
from mediavilla’s statement:
Sape is French slang for “dressing with class”. The French often use the expression “il est bien sape” to talk about a sharp dressed man. The term “sapeur” is a new African word that refers to someone that is dressed with great elegance.
However, the Congolese sapeurs are not only concerned about elegance, but also with good manners, politeness and morality. Generally, they only dress up on weekends and special occasions. Designer brands of suits and accessories are a big deal to Sapeurs. Complete attire can cost up to 1500 euros, although ironically, many of them don have a job. To get the whole outfit that can get them the sought-after prestige can take several years. Most of them start up with suits borrowed from established sapeurs that initiate them in the secrets of the Sape.The Congolese Sape, except for very rare exceptions, is a man thing, which sometimes is inherited whereas most of the times is acquired by choice.
see also: brief history of les sapeurs on sapeur supreme papa wemba’s site. it shows how the sape style started out as imitation of parisian style and elegance and a desire to escape congo mentally and physically. it was driven underground and became a rebellious fashion expression by the youth in the 70’s in response to mobutu sese seko’s repressive “authenticity” decree that changed congo to zaire, rochereau to tabu ley and banned the wearing of imported/western clothing styles.
more:
photos: sapeure shot by liz johnson-artur in paris. here is the fader article [PDF], where johnson-artur’s images appeared.
documentary: today the sapeur perspective has evolved to more of a competitive, brand worshipping form of expression somewhat like the hip hop bling scene as highlighted by a 2003 documentary the importance of being elegant.
[congolese sapes link via verve photo]
v.interesting and informative piece especially as fashion reporting tends to be dominated by women’s wear. it’s refreshing and inspiring to note that their dress sense is not purely focused on aesthetics but goes deeper – it’s a way of life…i’m left wondering about the impact of the relentless civil war…
the way of life aspect of it was new to me too, and makes the whole subculture even more fascinating. it still amazes me how joyous, exuberant congolese music and the congolese are even with the wars and the madness of mobutu. maybe it is a response to all the suffering they have experienced.
[...] La Sape has always been about escape even for the now old gentlemen in Congo Brazzaville where this all started in the 1940s. The young men in the film have bought into that escape fantasy to propel themselves from the poverty and war of Kinshasa to a life of luxury and elegance in Paris. In the final scenes when the filmmakers follow a sapeur nicknamed “the Archbishop” as he attempts to establish himself in Paris and in the SAPE scene there, we get a peek into the harsh realities awaiting these young men when they arrive, including a realization that it is all just a mirage. [...]