2 nairobis

the most fascinating article in the national geographic’s special issue on africa is (predictably) “inventing a city: nairobi”, a collaboration between david alan harvey on pictures and binyavanga wainaina on words. harvey’s use of a mixed light set up (strobes/daylight) injects more glamor on his view of my home city than is typical of africa-themed photography. but more interestingly, his images mirror wainaina’s essay on the two sides of nairobi; the one part a global city, the other part, east of moi avenue, an “undocumented sprawl of an evolving african city” (per the magazine article).

i grew up west of moi avenue, metaphorically speaking. that and my numerous years in the west make that other side of moi avenue so alien to me; a fact i find so unsettling as i consider nairobi my home. wainaina offers some insight as to why, on this quote from the magazine article:

“Mlango Kubwa is all motion–streams of people finding original ways to survive and thrive. You never get the impression that there are fixed and rooted institutions (buildings, legal entities) around which people organize. The organization of Mlango Kubwa is hidden in the unhindered to-ing and fro-ing of people feeling their way through the day.”

east of moi avenue, the essence of nairobi is largely invisible; to be experienced in the transactions and relationships that form part of daily life. there is no visible structure that someone like me reared on rules and instituitions can use as a guide. east of moi avenue, a true african city is emerging, coexisting with the other side of nairobi, founded on colonial structure and aspiring to global relevance. a true “nairobian” would be comfortable in both nairobis.

other cool stuff on the nairobi story from the nat geo site:
my nairobi: video interview with wainaina discussing his impressions on how nairobi works, or not. (best chapter: “tearoom”)
streets of kenya: images and narration by david alan harvey on his assignment in nairobi. in the paper article he gives props to his assistant